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How To Install A Vise On A Workbench

In this commodity, we'll finish up our Roubo-inspired workbench by adding a quick-release end vise by Rockler as well as another set of quick-release workbench pulley plates to make moving the bench around the shop much easier. At just over 35 pounds, the vise can seem a little intimidating, but luckily information technology separates into a few pieces which makes it fairly like shooting fish in a barrel to install without having to flip ane's workbench upside down.

A sliding deadman.

This vise comes with a nice wooden handle, but a pair of wooden jaws need to be congenital to match the workbench'south width and extend downwardly about 3" below the bottom of the workbench's summit.

For my jaws, I used a 2x8 southern xanthous pine board and marked off 2 knot-free sections that were roughly 6" longer than the width of my bench to account for planer snipe.

End vise hardware.

A board is marked.

I then headed over to my miter saw and cut them to rough length earlier running the boards through the jointer and planer to surface them.

A miter saw is used to cut a board.

A jointer is used to flatten a board.

A planer is used to flatten a board.

Next, I took them to the tabular array saw and ripped the boards to what will be their final elevation.

A table saw is used to rip a board to width.

Later trimming off the snipe from i stop of each board, I then marked off their concluding width and cut both together at the miter saw to ensure that they'd cease upwardly the same size.

The width of the board is marked at the bench.

Two boards are cut together at the miter saw

To make attaching the inner jaw to the bench easier, I took information technology to the drill press and fabricated a few counter-bored mounting holes about an inch and a quarter from the tiptop.

Counterbored holes are drilled at a drill press.

Then at the workbench, I secured the jaw to the end by running a clamp beyond the edge of it and the bench top since I didn't have a clamp long enough to run downward the length of the summit.

A clamp holds one jaw in place at the bench.

Subsequently aligning the jaw, I pre-drilled and temporarily attached it to the top.

The jaw is screwed into place.

Before mounting the vise hardware, I went alee and cleaned upward some of the old oil and applied a new light coat to the screw and rods.

The end vise hardware.

Once that was done, I removed the bolts on the rear plate with an 8mm Allen wrench and and so removed the vise front end and rods. I made sure to note which fashion the quick-release mechanism was oriented. (Note that it will also exist flipped upside downwards when mounted.)

The rear plate bolts are removed.

The rear plate is removed.

The front plate and rods are removed

I also marked the front face of the rear plate and the vise mount to avoid whatever confusion afterwards when the parts are mounted.

A mark is made on the front vise face.

Back at the bench, I fabricated a few marks on the bottom of the top to assist position the vise in the heart of the demote. Then, while holding the vise with its front face up against the jaw, I marked the locations of the 4 outer mounting holes and pre-drilled each of them.

A mark is made on the bottom of the bench top.

The screw location is marked on the bottom of the bench top.

To mount the vise hardware to the bench, I used four flat-head (HeadLOK) lag screws in the outer mounting holes, and and so came back later on and used four more ii" #14 wood screws on the inner holes.

A box of lag screws.

The vise mount is attached to the bench.

The vise mount is attached to the bench.

Next, I used a 1" Forstner flake to mark the screw and guide rod locations on the back of the jaw.

A Forstner bit is used to mark the hole locations.

I and then removed the jaw and took it over to the drill press to drill holes through both jaws using a i-one/viii" scrap. Using a slightly larger bit helps to get out a little wiggle room to make certain the vise screw and rods won't bind on the jaw.

The rear of the jaw.

A hole is drilled in the jaws at the drill press.

The jaws with holes drilled in them.

I besides went ahead and drilled a 3/4" dog pigsty into the summit of the outer jaw on both sides. Then I headed back over to the demote and reattached the inner jaw making sure the holes lined upward with the vise.

A dog hole is drilled into the outer jaw.

The inner jaw is reattached to the bench.

Afterward inserting the outer wooden jaw onto the spiral and rods, I carefully inserted them into the vise while holding the quick-release mechanism in place.

This probably would have taken a chip less fourth dimension with a helper, simply it's possible to balance the rods a little within the jaw and then hold the quick-release mechanism open up so that the outer jaw can exist slid into the vise.

The vise rods are inserted into the mount.

With that done, I reattached the rear plate and then lined up the outer jaw affluent with the inner one and clamped it in identify using the vise. To attach the outer jaw, I pre-drilled and used four i-1/four" #xiv screws.

The rear vise plate is reattached.

The outer vise jaw is aligned.

The outer jaw is attached to the vise.

Finally, I sanded down the edges flush with the workbench and practical a coat of boiled linseed oil to the outside of the vise jaws.

A random orbit sander is used.

Boiled linseed oil is wiped on the jaws.

And later attaching the wooden handle, it was fourth dimension for a few tests.

The vise handle is attached.

To engage the quick-release mechanism, you plow the handle counter-clockwise a i/4 to i/2 a turn and and then simply slide the outer jaw in or out. Once the handle is turned clockwise, it will re-appoint the quick-release mechanism making it possible to clench down a workpiece.

The vise handle is attached.

A board is clamped in the vise.

Rockler too sent two types of bench dogs to test out and both worked really well for face planing using the end vise.

A plane is used on a board secured in between bench dogs.

To end upwards with the workbench, I fastened some other set of quick-release caster plates which will permit me share the same set of casters betwixt this bench and my outfeed table whenever I demand to move things around in the shop.

The vise handle is attached.

A board is clamped in the vise.

The vise handle is attached.

That'll wrap upward this workbench series! A large thanks to Rockler for their support and providing the cease vise and accessories! If you have any questions about the vise or other hardware be sure to exit a comment below.

The vise handle is attached.

Be certain to check out Our Workshop page for more details!

Materials

  • Rockler 12" Quick Release End Vise
    • Vise Jaws: (one) ii"x8"x8' Southern Yellow Pine Board
    • 4 - 1-1/4" #fourteen Wood Screws (Outer Jaw)
    • 3 - 2" #fourteen Wood Screws (Inner Jaw)
    • 4 - 2" #xiv Wood Screws (Mounting Plate)
    • 4 - ii-7/viii" HeadLOK Lag Screws (Mounting Plate)
  • Workbench Casters and Quick Release Plates
  • Rockler Metal Bench Dogs
  • Rockler Plastic Demote Dogs
  • Rockler Demote Accessory Kit

Tools

  • Hitachi 12" Chemical compound Sliding Miter Saw (C12RSH) (Latest version: C12RSH2)
  • Dewalt Heavy Duty Miter Saw Stand (DWX723)
  • Grizzly eight" Jointer (G0586) on Mobile Base
  • Ridgid xiii" three-Blade Thickness Planer (R4330) (Latest version: R4331)
  • Grizzly G0691 Table Saw
  • Craftsman 17" Drill Printing (22901) on Mobile Base
  • Drill Press Tabular array
  • Bosch 5" Random Orbit Sander (ROS20VSC)
  • Rockler 16-Piece Forstner Drill Bit Set

Source: https://aroundhomediy.com/install-quick-release-end-vise/

Posted by: searsprame1977.blogspot.com

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